HOOKS FOR BAIT FISHING

1) For live or dead bait fishing no more than two single hooks my be used. Both must be firmly imbedded in or securely attached to the bait. The eyes of the hooks must be no less than a hook's length (the length of the largest hook used) apart and no more than 18 inches (45.72 cm) apart. The only exception is that the point of one hook may be passed through the eye of the other hook.

2) The use of a dangling or swinging hook is prohibited. Double or treble hooks are prohibited.

3) A two-hook rig for bottom fishing is acceptable if it consists of two single hooks on separate leaders or drops. Both hooks must be imbedded in the respective baits and separated sufficiently so that a fish caught on one hook cannot be foul-hooked by the other.

4) A photograph or sketch of the hook arrangement most accompany all record applications made for fish caught on two-hook tackle.
NOT LEGAL as back hook is not firmly imbedded in or securely attached to the bait, and is a dangling or swinging hook.

LEGAL as both hooks are firmly imbedded or securely attached to the bait. Would not be legal if eyes of hooks were more than 18 inches (45.72 cm) apart

Nose rigging

Nose rigging is a quick way to rig any baitfish for trolling or as a drop back bait. It is particularly well suited to using with circle hooks as it ensures that the hook point is not masked by the bait, and the short trolling 'bridle' allows the bait to be easily turned for swallowing.

You will need a rigging needle (mortician's needles are best) and a length of old Dacron or waxed cotton or linen thread. Dacron works great for me.

For a smallish baitfish such as an Atlantic mackerel or a Mullet use a 4 inch needle and around 20 inches of thread. Scale up to a 6 inch needle and around 30 inches of thread when using something like a Bonito or Skipjack tuna. Secure the thread to the needle with a single half hitch to stop it pulling out of the needle eye.



1) Take the baitfish and insert the needle into the gill cover approximately 1/3 way up from the throat latch at the bottom. Pass the needle right through and exit the opposite gill cover in a similar position.

Pull the Dacron almost all the way through and tie off under the chin using a Surgeons knot. The gill covers are now tied closed.

Trim off the tag end only.


2) Insert the needle up through the lower jaw and out of the RIGHT nostril. Pull to take up any slack. The Dacron from the gill covers will lay neatly in the groove beneath the jaw.



Come around and again pass the needle up through the lower jaw and out of the RIGHT nostril using the same path that you used the first time. Pull tight to close the right side of the mouth.

3) Now it becomes a little (but only a little) more tricky. Insert the needle up through the right side of the lower jaw and out of the LEFT nostril.

Before pulling through the slack Dacron put your index finger against the mouth of the baitfish and take up the slack around your finger. You are forming a towing loop the size of your finger. Again pass the needle up through the same hole in the lower jaw and again out through the left nostril.

Pull tight and the left side of the mouth is now stitched shut.




4) Pass the Dacron around your finger a second time and insert the needle up through the centre of the jaw and out of the upper jaw between the nostrils.

Pull tight and you will now have two towing loops around your finger.






5) Remove your finger from inside the trolling loops and finish with several half hitches around both loops to make things secure.

Baits prepared in this way can be stored in a cooler until required with no chance of tangling.

To attach to a hook, pass the hook point through the two loops, wrap the loops around the hook point once and pass the point through the loops again. The bait should hang about an inch from the bend of the hook.

How to tie the Bimini Twist

1) Begin by making a loop and twist the line at least 20 times.
Depending on the length you wish to make the double, two people may be required.

2) Alternately, you may attach the double to something (use a cleat or a rod in a holder and place the line over the rod butt) if another pair of hands is not available. In this case stand inside the loop facing away from the rod, and towards the knot. Be careful of line damage at the end of the double if you do use this method.

This example shows a short double being made. The double end can be placed around the knee or your foot for a double a bit longer. Apply steady tension so the twists come together. Ensure that tension is maintained at all times.

3) Keeping tension on the standing end (line to the reel), relax slightly the tag end and let it run down over the original twist. This process can be assisted by placing a finger in the "v" at the bottom of the twist.



4) When the twists are completely wrapped, make a half-hitch around the right leg of the loop and pull tight. This will prevent the knot unraveling temporarily and allow you to proceed to the next step.




5) Complete the knot with a four turn locking hitch around both strands of the loop. Moisten the line with saliva and pull the tag end slowly. Use you thumb and forefinger to draw back the turns as you tighten them. Trim the tag end but leave enough line so the knot doesn't unravel, which may (unlikely if tied correctly) happen if it is constantly moving in and out of rod guides. The unraveling can be prevented by applying super glue to the knot. A rubber type glue such as Aquaseal or Pliobond is also very useful.


Always remember to test all knots before fishing