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Friday, July 25, 2008

Make Bait Tips For Jigs

Here is how to make bait tips from shrimp to add flavor and odor to your jigs.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 30 minutes

Here's How:

1.You will need an empty plastic quart mayonaise jar, a box of table salt, and two pounds of bait shrimp without the heads.

2.Peel all the shrimp so you are left with meat only.

3.Cut the shrimp into pieces no larger than one half inch around.

4.Pour a layer of salt a half inch thick in the bottom of the jar.

5.Place a single layer of shrimp on the salt, and cover that layer with another layer of salt.

6.Alternate layers of salt and shrimp until the jar is filled, and put the lid on tightly.

7.Allow the jar to sit for as long as possible, even for several weeks.

8.You may now open the jar and remove the shrimp, placing them in plastic baggies for storage and use. Or you may simply use the shrimp directly from the jar, disgarding the excess salt.

9.The shrimp will be toughened enough to stay on a hook, small enough not to interfere with jig action, and smelly enough to do wonders attracting fish!


1.Make sure to remove all of the shell pieces

2.Make sure to cut the shrimp small enough, but not too small.

What You Need:

*2 pounds of fresh shrimp
*one pound of table salt
*1 plastic quart mayo jar

Monday, July 21, 2008

Looking for Fish in the Right Places

Do you fish the same areas over, and over again? Those same flats; that same channel cutting through the grass; the same ledge or wreck; you know all of the places you fish sometimes like the back of your hand.

You got to know those places over time by being familiar with them. So how can you go to a completely new area and have a chance at catching fish the first time out? Try some of these tips to get you started.

1-First of all, buy a good chart of the area. If its an inshore location, you will need it for navigation. If you are going offshore, wreck locations, bottom contours, and GPS numbers are on lots of fishing maps.

2-Stop at a good tackle shop and ask a lot of questions. Don't expect a lot of good answers in the early morning when they are busy. Come a little later in the morning when bait buying the rush has slowed, and simply tell the owner you are new to the area and that you would like his or her help in locating some fish. They will be eager to help you, because if you are successful, it is likely they just found a new customer! They will mark a chart up for you if you buy it from them, and that chart can end up being the best investment you can make.

3-When you get your chart, sit down one evening and study it. Find the cuts and channels. Locate the deeper holes or humps. Find the flats that will empty to a nearby channel at low tide. Chart study of this nature is basically eliminating large expanses of water rather than finding specific holes or places to fish. In any given area, there are literally miles of water that are not worth your while fishing. By simply eliminating that water, you can concentrate on more productive water.

4-Find out what the tides will be on the day you plan to fish. When you talk to the local tackle shop be sure to ask which tides to fish.

If all else fails and you have the funds available, hire a guide. One day of fishing with a guide can teach you the areas to fish, the bait to use, and the tides to fish. Granted, the guide may take you to only one location, but you will at least have that location on which to count. Lots of you guides may get angry at me for suggesting this, but let's face it, it's a paid trip and you'll only be giving up one location, not your entire black book!

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Fishing Phone Games

Infinite Dreams Hooked on Creatures of the Deep v0.74 N-GAGE SymbianOS9.1 Cracked-BiNPDA
Lost sense will bored let ' us play this game,


First Download and Install the N-Gage Application at ngage app
and install at your phone.

After install ngage application then install this games follow the instructions.

Game Download

Games Instruction

Hooked On: Creatures Of The Deep is one of Nokia's flagship first party games, and one of the most eagerly awaited titles of the new N-Gage platform's launch. It's been published by Nokia itself, and the developers are the Polish company Infinite Dreams, who are well-known in the smartphone community for their acclaimed high-quality games such as K-Rally, Sky Force and Super Miners (all of which are available for N-Gage phones, just look for the versions labelled "Symbian S60 3rd Edition").

HO:COTD is a sort of combination of a fishing simulator and a role playing game, with every successful catch earning you experience points (XP) that bring you closer to "levelling up", which unlocks new features, playing areas, items and even mini-games. You can just fish at random if you want, or you can choose to take part in a quest (usually to find a particular object lost underwater, or to catch a certain creature), or you can take part in tournaments which are held several times a day in the game world (they're offline tournaments against computer players, so you don't need an internet connection). All three activities can be done at once, so for example if you get bored of a quest you can go off to join a tournament.

The game takes place in four real-life fishing resorts in Costa Rica, Alaska, Scotland and Thailand. Some of the characters you meet exist in real life, and the resorts themselves are represented by locations in the game based on real maps. You start the game in Costa Rica but as you earn experience you'll unlock the other locations, and you can fly to them from each resort's airport. As you level up, new fishing tackle will be available to you from the resort shop (you don't have to pay for it, just reach the right level of experience and go and collect it).

The controls for the game are very, very simple: you move with the direction pad, and you select things with either the direction pad button or the top gaming button (the A button). You also occasionally have to choose an option with the blue soft keys. The simplicity of the controls means you can play the game just as easily with one hand as two, and the game plays just as well in horizontal/landscape mode as it does in vertical/portrait mode. HO:COTD is suited to practically any phone model with any button layout.

You choose where to fish from a detailed 2D map which you drive your boat around. The map is animated, so for example you can see where other boats are fishing (if there are any), and the depth of the water is visible from the colours of the sea or lake. Once you decide on a place to fish, you just click the button and you're presented with a 3D view of the spot where you can look all round and up and down.

Using a golf style power meter, you press the button to cast your line, and then press it again to choose how far out you want the line to go. If you've managed to obtain a depth meter, you'll see a chart showing how deeply your lure has sunk, which is important as different lures sink at different speeds, and different fish live at different depths. Reeling the lure in keeps it at that depth, though it may drag it away from an interested fish. When a fish does try to take the bait, the game's camera zooms in on the end of your reel, and if the fish is ready to be reeled in a blue icon will appear telling you to press the game button.

This is where the excitement begins: you have to get the fish all the way back to the boat, with that distance represented by a blue bar. At the same time, the fish has to get away from you, so it tries to pull on the line as hard as it can, and the strain on your line is represented by a green and red bar next to the blue bar. If you don't reel the fish in it will get away, but if you do reel the fish in it will cause strain on the line. Your task is to balance the strain with the reeling, and this is where the essence of the game lies, in "playing chicken" with the strain gauge so that it goes as close to breaking point without actually breaking. This is made very difficult by the constant changes in direction of the fish, and you see it spinning you around in the main display, occasionally even jumping out of the water in a rather spectacular manner.
If the above process sounds complicated, it isn't, you get to know the game very quickly and fishing becomes an instinctive process. Catching a fish feels very much like a duel, which is probably as it should be.

If you manage to get a fish reeled all the way in, you receive experience points based on how rare the fish is and how difficult it is to catch. You can then either keep the fish or release it (the game generally rewards you for releasing fish, especially rare species).

Sometimes you'll find a fish is very easy to reel in, and then you'll discover it isn't a fish at all but an object of some kind. It's worth keeping all the man-made objects you find, as you receive bonus experience points for removing rubbish from the water, and the objects may help you solve certain quests. Particularly interesting are the messages in bottles that you catch from time to time, which reveal the back-story to the location you're in at the moment. For example the Costa Rica resort has lots of ancient maps and messages from Christopher Columbus.

You'll also very occasionally catch a creature that isn't a fish, such as a turtle, crocodile or even (if you're lucky) the Loch Ness Monster.

N-Gage Arena

As far as we can tell, the only Arena features on here are online scoreboards, and various in-game actions also earn you N-Gage achievement points for your N-Gage profile.


Hooked On: Creatures Of The Deep is great fun to play once you've worked out where all the options and status screens are, and it gets even better once you've unlocked things like the depth meter, extra tackle, and the other resort locations. People who invest time in this game will be rewarded.

Unfortunately the game's designers haven't made it very easy to do the things above. The "Pause" menu is far more important than its name suggests, and the "Pocket" menu also needs to be much more prominent so people can easily find some extremely vital things like the tackle box. There really ought to be a tutorial at the beginning of the game taking the player through finding all these features, because progress will get very very difficult without them. Infinite Dreams know how to do tutorials, they have an excellent one at the beginning of Games, so it's a shame they didn't make one for this game too.

Another problem is that the amount of experience required to unlock certain parts of the game is far too high. The main reason this reviewer has taken so long to write this review is because it took about two or three days of long playing sessions to unlock the first extra resort. Considering the average phone gamer is only likely to be playing this on their way to and from work, it may take them weeks to unlock even one extra resort, by which time they could well have become bored as progress seems so slow. It also seems odd to lock these resorts at all, as the player starts on level 1 in all of them and progresses in each resort completely separately.

It's also a shame that N-Gage Arena hasn't been used for more than just scoreboards, and some features touted last year (such as putting your own message in a bottle for other Arena members to read) seem to have been dropped.

This is a frustrating situation because all the ingredients are here for one of our ultra-rare "Mega Game" awards, but unfortunately HO:COTD doesn't quite make it.

However, this is still one of the best phone games out there, it has great gameplay which suits long and short playing sessions, it has wonderful graphics, it has depth and longevity, the controls are simple and intuitive, and it brings a new kind of game to phones too. At 10 euros this is really good value for money, there's so much to discover in HO:COTD that it will keep you going for a long, long time.

We feel very happy to give Hooked On: Creatures Of The Deep our first "Recommended" award for a next gen game, and hope that Nokia will get Infinite Dreams to do lots more N-gage games. If they're this good on their first attempt, they definitely deserve a long term contract.

Game Download

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

How To Keep Your Gear in Working Order

Tackle is expensive and in salt water it can really take a beating. Here's some simple steps toward saving that tackle.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 30 minutes

Here's How:

1. When you return from a fishing outing wash your rods and reels immediately.
2. Use soapy water and a soft brush. Water from a hose will not break up dried salt. Soap and a brush is the only way.
3. Use the brush and soapy water on all reels and rods. Make sure to get every eye on all the rods.
4. Take every lure and hook that you used and wash them in the soapy water. This prevents the hooks from rusting.
5. The same goes for any tools. Wash pliers, cutters and knives in the soapy water.
6. Make sure everything has dried before you store your tackle. Turn all rods and reels upside down to allow any standing water to drain.
7. A small rag very lightly coated with a good reel oil should be used to wipe everything down after drying.
8. Follow the manufacturer's instruction on reel lubrication. Remember, if you think you are using too much oil, you very probably are. A little goes a long way.


1. If you use too much oil in a reel, the oil will ooze and seep on the next trip. You will find your hands coated, and fish do not like the scent of oil!
2. Have a place to hang drying rods and reels upside down so the water will drain.
3. Always store rods vertically either hanging or free standing - never leaning.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

The Hook Setting


circle hook


Getting a Good Hook Set is a Key to Catching Fish

With the possible exception of sheepshead, setting the hook on a fish is at once both the easiest and the most misunderstood action that anglers can take. I watch anglers all the time, and I find that different anglers have different techniques even when fishing for the same fish.

Hook Types

If a fish was caught, the hook had to be set; that’s simple enough. But who set the hook? Some anglers are simply lucky enough to catch a fish because the fish itself set the hook running away from the pull of the line. In the case of circle hooks, the fish sets the hook by design. But, on standard hooks, it takes a conscious effort to set the hook on a fish that bites. More important than anything else is probably the condition of your hook. Most anglers fish with the same hook – sometimes on multiple trips. Just how sharp is that hook? It should hang on your fingernail when the point is placed there. Get a good hook sharpener and use it!

Fish Species

All fish differ in at least one aspect. Important to us here is the shape, size and relative strength of their mouths. Seatrout have a very tender mouth, and hooks can easily be pulled if too much pressure is applied. At the other end of the spectrum is the tarpon, whose boney mouth is more often than not unable to be penetrated by a hook. Flounder and fluke present yet another type of hook set. They tend to hold the bait for a short while before getting it all the way into their mouth. Hence, a delayed hook set is necessary. Billfish present an entirely different set of rules because of the way they strike a bait with their bill and then circle around to eat the bait. In between all these we have a whole variety of fish that fall into a general category I call bottom fish.

Bait Types

There is a difference in the way a fish takes, as an example, a cut bait versus a live bait. They can usually inhale a cut bait and the bite that you feel needs a quick hook set. Live bait with a single hook, on the other hand, needs to be eaten; so, the hook set needs to be delayed to enable the fish to get the entire bait into its mouth. Artificial lures need a quick hook set to prevent the fish from spitting the lure when it realizes it has been fooled.

Water Depth, Line Length and Rod Size

Most anglers fish with monofilament line. That line has a stretching quality that can be significant in deep water. If you are fishing relatively deep water (fifty feet or more), you need a longer rod with more backbone. That hook set needs to be hard and long to overcome the stretch in the line, and the longer, beefier rod can help. Braided line can help the stretch problem, but can still be affected by currents that put a bow in the line. Either way, you have to overcome the depth to set that hook.

Basic Rules

So, here are some basics you can follow and questions you can ask yourself to help you set that hook and bring a good fish to the boat or pier.

* Know the fish you are pursuing - does it have a soft mouth or a hard mouth?
* How deep are you fishing?
* What kind of line are you using?
* How about that hook - Circle or standard?
* What kind of bait are you using – can the fish get it all in one bite?

Simple rules make hook setting an easy task. These basics can help if you pay attention and react accordingly. Tight lines!

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Fishing Rod Buying Basics

Fishing Rod Comparison

Many people looking to buy a fishing rod simply show up at the local big box store and pull the first rod that catches their eye off the rack. Others search the Internet for reviews on popular upscale brands. Still others ask a friend, or in my case, write to me asking which rod to buy. Here are some basic rod facts that you need to know before you head out or go online to purchase one.
What Kind of Fishing are you Planning?

* Inshore Fishing

Inshore fishing means relatively shallow water and relatively small fish – under 20 pounds for the most part. So, you need a rod that can handle a good size fish, but not one that weighs so much you can’t even fish with it.

* Casting – Casting rods are used with conventional reels and can be used with lures or bait for light bottom fishing. They also accommodate floats and are good for free-lining live bait.

* Spinning – Spinning rods can usually do the same things that a casting rods does, they simply use a different reel – a spinning reel. Spinning equipment can cast a lighter lure and is not subject to the backlash problems that an inexperienced angler encounters with a casting reel. This is a good choice for a beginning angler.

* Bottom Fishing – Either casting or spinning rods can be used for inshore bottom fishing. The water depth, current, and amount of weight required to get a bait to the bottom helps dictate which size rod to use.

* Fly Fishing – If you are reading this and you are a beginning fisherman, fly fishing may be the last thing on your mind. But, inshore saltwater fly fishing is extremely popular. If you do plan a first time purchase of a saltwater fly outfit, go with a prepackaged complete outfit in a 6 to 8 weight range. This is a good midrange starting point – heavier weights are for larger fish (Tarpon, big stripers, etc.), lighter weights are usually found in freshwater applications.

* Offshore Fishing

* Trolling – The majority of trolling rods are built for conventional reels. While heavy spinning gear is sometimes used trolling for dolphin and king mackerel, conventional tackle is by far the most popular. These rods are usually labeled by line class. The IGFA 30, 50, and 80 class reels match up with the appropriate rod. These rods are usually an investment – they can cost that much. It is not unusual to pay over $1000 for a complete outfit. However, there are some good rods that can be combined with good reels that can come in under $200 for the package.

* Bottom Fishing – These are the “meat” rods that many anglers have used to catch loads of fish. They are heavier and stiffer than a trolling rod, generally longer than a trolling rod, and are able to stand up to the abuses that a big fish can give them.

* Fly Fishing – Fly rods that are used offshore are built for punishment. These are the heavier outfits that have large arbor reels (reels that hold lots of line) and come in weights from 9 to 12. These are very specialized rods for a very specialized type of fishing.

*Surf Fishing

Surf rods are another specialized category. They are made for both spinning and casting reels – the choice is more dependent on angler preference than anything else. These rods are from 9 to 12 or 14 feet in length. They are designed to allow for super long casts that can get a bait out beyond the breakers on the beach. The rod size is also determined by angler preference, and usually means longer, heavier rods when looking for bigger fish.

*Pier Fishing

Almost any inshore rod, including surf rods, can be and are used from piers. Once again, angler preference, casting distance, and fish size will dictate the rod type and size.

Rod Attributes

All rods have a set of attributes that separate them from each other. They may not be limited to this list, but these are the most important ones you need when choosing a rod.

* Length

o- Longer rods usually – not always – mean longer casts.
o- Longer trolling rods will give to a fish when they strike, and are suited for lighter trolling line.
o- Shorter rods generally mean heavier line.
o- Long rods make lure casting easier.
o- Shorter rods are generally better for bottom fishing.

* Guides

o Ceramic guides are more expensive but allow smoother operation, less line fray, and longer casts.
o- Roller guides are used on heavy trolling and bottom fishing rigs.
o- Case hardened stainless steel guides are used for wire line applications.
o- Standard metal guides are least expensive and are suited for most bottom fishing applications.

* Butt Length - The butt of the rod is the part between the reel and the back end of the rod. Casting rods will generally have shorter butts. Spinning rods will have slightly longer butts, and bottom fishing or trolling rods will have much longer butts. The length of the butt on a rod is dependent on how the anger plans to use the rod. Angler preference for comfort and ease of use is also in play here.

* Action (Taper) - Taper is an attribute that most beginning anglers and many experienced anglers overlook. Taper relates to the amount of bend the rod imparts from the tip to the butt. It is measured from slow to extra-fast. In general, the slower the taper, the cheaper the rod blank.

o- Slow - A slow taper means the whole rod, from butt to tip will bend in an arc under pressure – sort of like a big bow. This makes casting a heavy bait difficult and setting a hook even more difficult.

o- Medium - Moving up the scale, a medium taper tends to have the butt section not bend as easily as the top portion of the rod. Most “store bought” rods will be a medium taper. It fits the majority of fishing situations.

o- Fast – A fast taper rod will bend mainly in the upper portion of the rod. It has a lot of strength (backbone) in the lower portion and is more flexible in the upper section of the rod blank.

o- Extra-Fast Taper This taper has the upper 12 to 18 inches of the rod bending with an extremely strong butt section. These rods are generally more expensive, and offer precise casting ability on light artificial lures. They have the flexible rod tip to work a small lure but still have the strength to horse a bigger fish if necessary.

Understanding the terminology and simple attributes of fishing rods can help you make a good choice when looking for a new rod.

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Top 4 Casting Rods

Casting rods are perfect for top water plug action with comparatively heavy line. Their shorter length and heavier backbone allow wrist action to make a plug walk. The better rods will have a fast taper and comfortable hand grip.

1. Shimano Teramar Southeast Casting Rod

This is a highly responsive rod with a TC4 blank that combines a double layer of T Glass with inner and outer spirals of high-modulus graphite, for superior strength without added weight. The action is crisp and dynamic, enhanced with Fuji New Concept Hardloy guides, a Fuji reel seat and Grade A cork handles with hook keeper. It comes with a manufacturer's limited lifetime warranty. Nice rod.

2. Offshore Angler - Inshore Extreme Casting Rod

These rods are custom-built for the inshore angler. Thay are built for the inshore angler pursuing redfish, speckled trout, and snook. The HM-54 graphite blanks are laid up with a new computer-generated design for unsurpassed strength and sensitivity. The actions have been tuned for tossing lightweight lures and popping corks, and a heavy backbone for setting the hook on a speck without ripping his lips off.

3. All Star "Big Boy" Rod

These rods feature the best of everything: premium high modulus IM10X graphite blanks with titanium-coated stainless steel guides, 'Sensa Touch' blank-thru reel seats and premium cork handles. They can move really big fish away from structure and though they appear to be over built and oversized, they're incredibly light and strong.

4. St. Croix Tidemaster Inshore Casting Rods

Made for throwing plugs and bucktails at stripers or blues, ripping tube lures past a voracious barracuda, or subtly dropping a crab on the nose of a permit or bonefish, these rods can do it all. Lightweight. Perfectly balanced. With precise casting accuracy and fish-fighting power. All rods feature premium 1-pc, SCII graphite blanks featuring specialized taper designs to maximize your presentation. Fuji Hardloy guides and Fuji reel seats.

Fishing for Grouper

The Approaches

There are basically three approaches used when fishing for grouper – straight bottom fishing, free lining live bait, and slow trolling.

1. Let’s talk about the bottom fishing method first. A good rod and reel, with fifty pound test monofilament line can handle almost all the grouper you may encounter. Line much larger than that is overkill that is cumbersome, and, some believe, visible to the fish.

* The terminal tackle consists of a sinker, leader, and hook arranged one of two ways. The first way is called a fish finder rig by most anglers. It is tied with a pyramid or bank sinker on the very end of the leader. Up about eighteen inches from the sinker is a loop tied in the leader. The loop is about twelve inches long and it is to this loop that the hook is tied. A variation of this rig has a longer leader with two loops and hooks.

* The fish finder rig is the favorite bottom rig of almost all the bottom fishing charter boats. It is excellent for fishing straight down under the boat. Even when the rig is dropped right into the bottom structure, it seldom hangs up, something charter captains love.

* The normal bait used on a fish finder is cut bait, either squid or small fish, and occasionally a small live bait. This rig will catch a variety of species, including grouper.

2. More serious grouper anglers will opt for the second approach, called a live bait rig. This one had a sliding egg sinker on the line above the leader. The leader is long, sometimes five or six feet long. The hook of choice on this rig is a circle hook, normally about 8/0 or 9/0 in size (an 8/0 circle hook is about the same size as a 5/0 regular hook).

* Both of these bottom rigs use monofilament leaders. The choice of leader material for most anglers is fluorocarbon. Advertised as virtually invisible to fish, it does seem to draw more strikes that regular monofilament.

* The long leader allows a live bait to swim more freely and naturally than a short leader. The sliding egg sinker allows a fish to take the bait and swim off without feeling the weight of the sinker.

* All of the preparation so far is pretty standard fare for almost any bottom fish. The difference in and secret to grouper fishing comes in how you handle the strike.

* Grouper run out, grab a bait, and head back for cover. This habit will cause many lost fish and hung lines. Serious grouper anglers will crank the drag down on their reel as hard as they can, often using a pair of pliers to lock it down. The idea is to stop the grouper from taking line and returning to his structure home.

* When a grouper strikes, anglers will lay their rod on the rail and start winding as hard as they can. The circle hook will handle hooking itself. The battle now is one of brute strength between angler and fish. More often than not the fish wins!

* When a grouper makes it into a rock or reef, many anglers will simply break off the line and try again. The savvy angler will give the fish a loose line for as long as thirty minutes to allow the fish to relax and possibly swim out from under the structure. It has worked for many anglers on more than one occasion.

The third method for grouper fishing involves trolling, and there are two variations of trolling to use. In the Gulf of Mexico grouper anglers use magnum diving plugs that will go as deep as thirty feet or more. Many areas of Gulf bottom are lined with ledges and rock. Artificial reefs can be found on any good chart from as close in as five miles to as far offshore as fifty miles or more. Anglers slow troll these large artificials over and around this structure.

* The second variation is to troll with Monel wire line using a trolling weight and trolling feather. Strip baits are cut and attached to a double hooked trolling feather. A six-foot leader is tied to a one pound trolling weight and that weight is then tied to the wire line.

* Very heavy tackle, including a rod with case hardened roller guides and roller tip is necessary when fishing with wire line. This makes the fishing outfit heavy and cumbersome at best.

* The wire line method is popular in and around south Florida in the winter when big black grouper move into the shallower reefs. Patch reefs rising off the bottom in twenty feet of water will top out about three feet below the surface. Sometimes thirty yards in diameter, they are an ideal habitat for black grouper. Anglers troll around the edges of these reefs waiting for as strike. When one occurs, the boat moves directly away from the reef to drag the fish away from its hole. The first few yards of wire line are often reeled in with the rod still in the rod holder. This is really meat fishing, with little chance for a real fish battle; but, it is different, and it does put fish in the box!

Keep Your Catch Fresh

Fresh fish is the best fish, and keeping it fresh on the water is easy if you follow these steps.

1.Take an ice chest with you large enough to hold at least 50 pounds of ice with half of it's volume remaining.

2.Determine how long you plan to fish. Crushed ice will not last as long as block ice.

3.Use crushed ice if you are fishing a half day or less. Use block ice if you are
fishing more than a half day.

4.With crushed ice, cover the fish with ice in the ice chest as you catch them.

5.With block ice, chip off enough ice with an ice pick to cover the fish as you catch them.

6.With a large thick fish, consider gutting the fish while on the water and getting ice into the stomach cavity. On a hot day, fish will spoil from the backbone out because the cold can't penetrate fast enough.

7.If you have a long boat ride and drive home, consider taking a box of table salt along with you. Pour and mix the salt in the ice chest with the fish and melting ice. It has the same effect as salt in an ice cream churn and will keep the fish colder.

8.If you have a large boat with a built in fish box, consider making a salt brine slush with 100 pounds of crushed ice and table salt. This brine will keep fish all day and will actually be act colder than plain ice.


1. Contrary to popular belief, fresh fish will only stay fresh for 2 days, and then only if they are handled properly. After two days they must be eaten frozen.

2. Strong flavored or oily fish like bluefish or the mackerel family will become even stronger unless they are kept very cold after being caught and eaten before freezing
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