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Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Trout Swim Plug

The Bottom Line

If you are fishing for troply fish, this is an excellent plug. You may not get a lot of bites while fishing with an A.C. Plug but the ones you do get usually will be worth taking a picture. Use these baits if you want to catch a wall hanger.


* Hand Carved Baits
* Excellent Action
* Very Sharp Owner Hooks
* Large Sizes for Big Fish
* Combination Wooden Body and Soft Plastic Tail


* Need Heavy Tackle


* A.C. Plugs come in several sizes and colors
* These plugs are hand carved and strong
* Excellent baits for trophy size fish

Guide Review - A. C. Hatchery Trout Swim Plug

A. C. Plugs are great baits for trophy fish. They are a little hard to cast if you are not used to throwing big baits, but they are excellent if you want to catch the big one. They come with very sharp Owner hooks that are heavy enough to handle any fish you hook and are solidly built plugs.

You can get A.C. Plugs in a varitey of colors and patterns including minnow, trout, shad and others as well as a varitey of sizes.

These plugs look very realistic in the water. Based on the pictures of trophy fish on the site, big fish think they look real, too.

Note - A plug was provided to me free of charge to test and use.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Choosing the Right Terminal Tackle

The right choice depends on the fishing situation at hand

Bottom fishing, whether inshore or in deep offshore waters, necessarily means making a choice on the terminal tackle you plan to use. Many anglers catch fewer fish as a result of a poor choice or no choice at all.

Fish Finder Rigs

Party boats, or head boats, take from 12 to 50 people offshore bottom fishing and provide them with the tackle and bait. More often than not, the terminal tackle provided on the rods will be the fish finder type of rig. Sometimes called a ‘chicken’ rig, these leader- to-hook arrangements will have a pyramid or bank sinker tied to the end of the leader. Anywhere from twelve to twenty-four inches up from the sinker a loop is tied in the leader, to which is tied a hook. Sometimes a second loop and hook are tied above the first loop. Twelve inches above that will be the swivel.

The whole rig can be three feet long, making it extremely difficult to cast. This rig is designed to drop straight down to the bottom. With people fishing less than three feet apart from each other on a party boat, dropping straight down with heavy sinkers prevents lots of tangled lines.

Fish finder rigs are not just for the party boats, however. When fishing over a wreck or artificial reef, there are several species of fish that may not be on the bottom. Vermillion snapper (beeliners) school and suspend in the water column over the structure. Baits going to the bottom with a heavy sinker usually rocket right through the school. Savvy anglers recognize these schools on a fish finder and change their bottom rig accordingly.

Moving from a heavily weighted single hook rig to a smaller double hook rig will produce fish. Smaller baits on the two hooks and a slow descent will almost always result in a double hookup under these circumstances.

Grouper and Snapper Rigs

These two rigs consist of three to five foot monofilament leaders with a hook on one end and a swivel on the other. Grouper rigs have heavier and longer leaders with larger hooks than the snapper rigs.

These rigs are used with an egg sinker that can slide up and down the angler’s line. Bottom fishing straight down with these rigs is difficult in deep water. As the rig goes to the bottom, the weight of the sinker and relative buoyancy of the bait results in some very twisted lines. The sinker heads for the bottom and slides up the line leaving the bait behind to twist and turn.

These rigs do have a place in deep water though. In a current situation, a slower descent will stop the tangles because the current keeps the bait and hook out away from the sinker on the way down.

Even in a no current situation, these rigs can work well with live bait. The live bait swims away from the sinker, and a slow descent can again get the bait to the bottom without a tangle.

Many times large grouper and red or mutton snapper are leader shy. Chicken rigs make them wary and afraid to bite. Often a very long leader with an egg sinker and a live bait can entice a bite from a bigger fish.

Flounder Rigs

Flounder rigs use beaded casting sinkers or trolling sinkers. These sinkers are elongated and streamlined, allowing them to be bumped along the bottom with less chance of hanging on structure. The line is tied directly to one end of the sinker and the leader is tied to the other end. A twelve to eighteen-inch leader ties to a kayle or circle hook.

These rigs are ideal for dragging a live bait slowly along the bottom in search of flounder. Small mullet, mud minnows and other small live fish are ideal flounder bait with this rig.

Wire Leaders

Whether it’s king mackerel, Wahoo, or barracuda, sharp teeth dictate wire leaders. A wire leader can be stranded wire, coated wire, or stainless steel, and it is made in a variety of weight classes. The wire discourages strikes because it can be seen so easily; for that reason, is generally used in trolling situations.

Wire kinks easily if not handled properly, and will develop kinks while fighting a big fish. Take care to change leaders as necessary after a catch.


Often terminal tackle will be used with little or no weight. The term ‘free-lining’ comes from the description of the bait as it drifts naturally with the current. This method uses a long leader, usually monofilament, and usually a live bait, free to swim where it will.

Choose your terminal tackle according to the prevailing circumstances. Match the weight to the conditions, and match the type of presentation to the target fish. Fish with the smallest weight required to get your bait to the desired strike zone while matching the size of your leader to the targeted fish. ‘Minimize’ should be the buzzword. The right tackle, the right leader, and the right presentation can put fish in your cooler.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Cara membaca pasang surut air laut

Untuk membaca jadual air pasang sila rujuk kepada contoh di bawah seperti yang biasa tertera dalam sisipan JORAN. Sebagai contoh

Pelabuhan Klang


Masa Meter

02.52 1.80848

08.48 4.41518

01.51 1.32128

21.28 4.5


Masa Meter

03.38 1.90927

09.27 4.21556

15.56 1.42215

22.15 4.5

Paparan masa adalah 24 jam. Contoh, pada Sabtu jam 2.52 pagi, air berada di paras paling surut dan mula bergerak pasang selepas jam 2.52 pagi. Air akan pasang sepenuhnya pada jam 8.48 pagi dan kembali bergerak surut hingga berhenti jam 3.18 petang. Air kembali pasang dan penuh pada jam 9.28 malam.

Waktu terbaik memancing berdasarkan pada jadual pasang ini ialah pada jam 2 pagi hingga jam 3.30 pagi, jam 8 pagi hingga jam 9 pagi, jam 2.40 petang hingga jam 3.50 petang dan seterusnya.

Pengiraan dibuat berdasarkan kepada pergerakan air piantan (30 minit sebelum dan selepas arus berubah) di mana ikan muara kebiasaannya galak setiap kali berlaku pertukaran arus.

Tetapi tidak bermakna waktu lain kita tidak boleh memancing. Memancing boleh seharian tetapi fokus dan tumpuan perlu diberikan setiap kali arus akan berubah. Persembahan umpan untuk ikan muara seperti jenahak, siakap dan kerapu sebolehnya ikan hidup atau jenis umpan segar. Selain itu pemancing perlu pastikan perambut dan tali utama tidak berbelit ketika umpan dilepaskan ke dasar.

Penggunaan saiz mata kail, kekuatan perambut dan tali utama pula tertakluk saiz ikan yang biasa di pancing di satu-satu lokasi. Secara am peralatan medium 15 paun hingga 30 paun sesuai untuk pancing muara.

Pasang Surut Air Laut Malaysia

Thursday, November 20, 2008


Avoid the kid’s stuff

A quality ultra-light bait cast or spin cast rod and reel combo is usually easier for kids to use.

Small hooks = big catches

Avoid hooks larger than size 10 (hook sizes run backwards - size 12 is smaller than size 10). Fish won’t readily take large hooks unless they are feeding voraciously. Most of the time, a subtle presentation is needed to catch wary fish. Tiny hooks also allow small fish to “inhale” the bait, rather than nibble the bait of the hook. If a fish swallows the hook and you want to return it to the water, simply cut the line as close to the hook as possible and release the fish.

Lighten up your line

Light line will do the job, preferably 6-pound test line or less. Unless you’re targeting monster catfish or marauding muskies, light line is your best bet.

Bag the big bobbers

Bobbers (or floats) are used to suspend your bait in the water and to alert you when to set the hooks. The harder the bobber is to pull under, the harder it will be to hook a fish. Small floats will help convince the fish to take your tasty bait and run. “Slip” bobbers work well for kids. Slip bobber rigs cut down on the amount of line needed at the end of the rod and are easier to cast. Small ice fishing bobbers can provide a light touch any time of year.

Sink it with shot

Sinkers help get your line down to the fish. They can also create “zero buoyancy.” Ideally, you want your bobber to just barely float on the top of the water. Squeeze small BB-sized split shot sinkers onto your line one at a time until your bobber early sinks from the weight. Since there is very little resistance when the fish takes the bait, it is more likely to bite the bait and run.

Great big gobs of worms won’t do

There’s no need to use whole whopping-big, writhing night crawlers on your hook. Keep the bait approximately the size of your hook. Live bait such as worms, beemoths or crickets work best. Cut the bait to fit your hook.

Line Size

You can Catch More Fish on Smaller Line

How many of you out there use the same tackle with the same line for all of the fishing you do? You never change equipment or line size to accommodate a different fishing situation. Line size, in particular, does make a difference.

I'm not talking about the obvious fact that the big game tackle needed for marlin would not be used for inshore flats fishing. I'm talking about the more subtle differences that a lot of anglers miss.

Fishing offshore last week, several of us were looking for a big catch to supply an upcoming fish fry event. That necessarily meant looking for a lot of average size fish rather than baiting and fishing for th4 one or two good catches we normally pursue.

We anchored over an artificial reef some 28 miles off of Saint Augustine, Florida, and immediately began catching fish. Vermillion snapper and black sea bass were all over this wreck and showed up on the depth finder in great numbers.

The vermillion (we call them beeliners) were up in the water column as usually. With a double hook fish finder rig (a six ounce sinker on the bottom and two branches of leader and hook above) some of us were dropping all the way to the bottom where we lost our baits to small pinfish and grunts. We went right down through and missed the school of snapper.

Several cranks up off the bottom put the bait in a good strike zone where the beeliners were holding. While we caught some of the beeliners with this method, I knew we could do far better.

Beeliners, and snapper in general are wary fish, and the larger ones did not get to be that large by eating every bait in front of them. I have studied snapper underwater in my diving days and watched them approach a bait. Generally, the bigger the fish, the less likely he was to get caught. The bigger ones seemed to lay back and watch the smaller ones tear and run at the bait. Only after they seemed to believe that it was safe would they attack a bait. The trick was - and still is for snapper - to make the bait appear as natural as possible.

The seas were running about three feet with a pretty sporty northeast ground swell. The sea conditions meant that the baits suspended off the bottom would rise and fall, sometimes abruptly, as much a ten feet in either direction. This certainly was not a very natural presentation, and the catch rate was proving just that.

The fish we were after would top out at five or six pounds. There was no need for the 50 pound test line and 100 pound test leaders we were using. So. I took out my eight pound spinning outfit. I tied a twelve inch, twenty pound test fluorocarbon leader to the line using a surgeon's knot and tied a 3/4 ounce. 2/0 jig head to the leader.

The jig head was big enough to get my eight pound line down to eighty feet or so to the fish, yet light enough to actually let the baited jig drift down at a slower rate. As the boat lifted and fell with the seas, I adjusted the line leaving my reel accordingly.

It was pretty easy to watch the line slowly disappear from the surface of the water, and when it quit sinking, I set the hook. A big beeliner had grabbed the naturally sinking bait without hesitation. The great part was that the bait never had a chance to get down to the junk fish. Beeliners were jumping on it before it ever got that deep.

Two things were very apparent to me on this trip, and I believe they will make a difference for you as well. While I didn't catch the biggest fish that day (Jason stumbled onto a nice 20 pound gag grouper), I consistently caught more and bigger fish than the average size being brought aboard.

First, I believe the line size made a difference that took the wariness away from the larger fish. Second, I believe the bait presentation, being more natural because of the line size, was more appealing to the fish.

I watch people every day fishing for small fish with an arsenal that would theoretically catch a whale. They watch me and my parties catch fish right next to them and shake their heads. They simply don't get it! Fish are cold blooded and may not have the brains to think = or so we think. I believe that the right line size makes a major difference in catch rate and overall success.

Best of all, the lighter tackle makes catching them a whole lot more fun!

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Kite Fishing


1. Make up components as individual units, dropline, bottle, bait and trace etc. Use snap swivels for easy attachment.
2. Set up Skymaster and adjust bridle ring until desired angle of attack is achieved. You do this by loosening the larks head knot and sliding the line through the ring and then tightening the knot again. Shortening the left-hand bridle line will make the kite tack to the right and vice-versa. Make small adjustments and fly the kite and keep adjusting until you are satisfied. Let out all the kite line and remove the line from the reel and attach a snap swivel on the end.
3. Now clip the kite line onto the 3-way swivel, which in turn is attached to the fishing reel, drop line, bottle and bait. You will now be controlling everything from the reel.
4. Begin to let out line from the fishing reel taking up the slack from the drop line until you can release the bottle. This is a good time to check that the kite is behaving properly.
5. Keep letting out line from the reel until the bottle, and bait, is the desired distance from shore, this is usually 200m - 500m (650ft - 1,650ft).

NOTE: Don't make the drop-line and trace longer than you can back up on land, otherwise you may not be able to get the fish close enough to gaff. Kite fishing alone is not easy so have a helper at hand.

When I was a kid, one of the favorite summer pastimes was kite flying. We would spend hours adding just enough tail to keep the kite straight, but not so much that it would not reach some altitude. We would ride bicycles with the kite string tied to our waste and the kite suspended in the air 30 or 40 feet above and behind us. On calm days we would run sometimes an entire city block trying to launch our kite.

I still enjoy kite flying, only these days it is from the stern of a boat! And the kites I fly today are a far cry from the newsprint and balsa wood versions we used to make. These high tech kites I use are for one purpose, and that is to catch fish.

The method is relatively easy. It just takes a little practice to keep the boat motion either with the engine or with a drift such that the kite remains in the same relative vertical space all the time.

The kite acts as an outrigger of sorts, although you might better name it and "up" rigger.

The kite is launched and flown from the stern of a boat, usually on a line from a special rod and reel. The fishing line is attached at the kite similar to an outrigger, only instead of keeping the line out, it keeps it up. Boat speed
determines where the bait is in the water.

Usually a slow troll or drift, this fishing is designed for live bait. A live blue runner, or ballyhoo, or other bait fish is suspended from the kite right on the surface of the water. The bait's attempts to get below the surface
coupled with the motion of the kite keep the bait in and out of the water, right on the surface. It really drives billfish in the area crazy!

But don't be fooled into thinking that this is strictly a billfish tactic. King mackerel, cero mackerel and occasionally wahoo are also caught from kite rigs. My fishing partner has even caught yellowfin and blackfin tuna from his kite.

Any one can use this method. The expense involved is minimal, even for the special designed fishing kites. Many fishermen make their own kites to save money, but when they are made from paper, they usually don't last through the first day. So, a vinyl kite made for fishing is recommended. Simply catch your live bait, get to the area you would normally be trolling, and dangle a live bait on the surface under a kite. A nice lazy way of spending a day - no hard fishing, no weeds to clear from the bait, and a whole lot less gasoline used.

Changing Tactics Can Find Fish

Knowing what to do when the norm changes can save the fishing day

Water temperatures remained at a record low and continued heavy rains were making freshwater runoff a problem in my area. The cold thermocline continued to run the northeast Florida coast, and fishing was tough all around – unless, that is, you took some steps to overcome the problems.

What does this have to do with anglers in other areas, you may ask. Plenty. Adverse conditions, whether weather, temperature or anything else, can plague all of us at any given time. The anglers that know how to deal with these conditions will continue to catch fish despite the adversity.

That was the case for us during this time. Although our efforts went largely unrewarded, the plan of attack was correct, and we fished through the problems. Jason Marsh of Jacksonville and Lt Brian Bartlett, a Navy pilot out of NAS Jacksonville fished with me offshore from St Augustine, looking for some king mackerel.

The kings have yet to show up “on the beach” because of the colder water, and all the recent kingfish tournaments have found fish up to 50 miles offshore. So, we headed for some wrecks and artificial reefs ten to twenty miles off looking for fish.

What we found was no bait. Well, actually there was some bait. We found one pod of Spanish sardines and cigar minnows about nine miles off. It obviously was the only bait around because there were no fewer than twenty boats on that pod catching bait. Tangled Sabiki rigs, boats bumping into each other – it was a circus of sorts. But everyone was kind and we pushed off other boats as they pushed off on us, and caught enough live bait to use trolling.

Ordinarily we would have netted menhaden shad along the beach and used them for bait, but the cold water has run that bait off as well.

The Effects of Water Temperature

How it can change your fishing decisions

The Change

Water temperature plays such an important part in fishing that every angler needs to pay attention and react to even subtle variances. Fish are no different than a lot of animals when it comes to heat and cold. They want to stay comfortable. Consequently, even a small change or “break” will cause fish to move from one location to another.


Fishing offshore presents particular problems. Temperatures can and do change from the surface to the bottom. I have fished in water that was 80°F on the surface and below 60°F on the bottom. What appeared to be ideal water was virtually void of fish – at least those that were in a feeding mood. Be aware of temperatures at varying depths and be prepared to react.

With surface temperatures, fish will often move along temperature breaks where warm and cold water meet. These breaks draw baitfish and feeding fish are close behind.


Inshore waters are not as susceptible to temperature breaks, but they do exhibit changes according to the weather. Summer water temperatures as high as 90°F absolutely turn the fish off. Winter temperatures below 50°F do the same. Sometimes in summer, daytime fishing can be fruitless when the water is that hot.


Pay attention to the NOAA weather maps online. Surface water temperatures are plotted and when cold thermoclines invade a coastline during the summer as they often do, you can see where you need to be fishing. Remember – find the breaks.

Finding the Fish

Look for surface temperature breaks offshore. Pelagics like mahi mahi, king mackerel, wahoo and tuna will run these breaks. Look for median bottom temperatures in deeper water. The fish will be in a comfort zone. If it’s too hot or too cold, they will move to that comfort zone.

Inshore, stay with morning and evening fishing in the hot summer, and rely on mid-day fishing in the winter. Stay away from the extremes of hot and cold. There are numerous warm water discharges from power plants on almost every coast. Winter fishing around this warm water can be excellent. Conversely, summer fishing there can be the pits.

Remember – look for the comfort zones and you will find the fish.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Fishing Without Bait

Have you ever left the dock and headed out to fish after forgetting your bait?

How many of us have ever left the dock and headed out to fish only to find you left the bait in a cooler on the dock? It’s a long ride back to the dock, and at the price of fuel today, it makes it very expensive to head back and retrieve it.
I have left my bait on several occasions over the years. There were also some days when there was no bait to be found! There are some solutions to a dilemma like this. Being prepared ahead of time can allow you to fish without retrieving that bait.

I always keep several items on the boat. These are things I only remove when I do a complete cleaning, and I make sure they are stowed on the boat again before I finish. They include several Sabiki rigs in a variety of sizes, an unbreakable jar of salt-hardened shrimp pieces, and a cast net.

The Sabiki rigs are a staple item on my boat for catching live bait. The shrimp is what I use to tip my bucktail jigs, and it also can be used alone to catch small fish for bait. The cast net is, of course, the major bait catching item. I keep it stowed in a two gallon plastic bucket, always ready when a school of baitfish comes around.

Improvising also plays an important role on one of these days. I remember one trip in particular when I was growing up in Key West. We had a small skiff and outboard – an 11 hp Wizard from Western Auto – and we did a lot of trolling for barracuda. We trolled because the boat leaked so badly we could only anchor for a few minutes at a time.

The boat was tied to some mangroves in a small creek. A fishing trip entailed buying bait, usually three pounds of whole mullet, and taking all our gear to the boat.

On this particular day, we managed to leave the mullet on the counter at the bait shop. We discovered this fact after we had left the creek and run to the small islands near Sawyer Key, around which we planned to troll. With no bait, my father took his shirt and undershirt off. He tore several strips of cloth from his white undershirt. They were about ten inches long and two inches wide.

Normally we would have taken one filet from the side of a mullet and cut it in half long ways to make two strip baits. This strip bait would be placed on a tandem double hook rig, and trolled slowly behind the boat. Barracuda on the grass flats around these islands could not resist bait like this.

Today, we took the cloth strips and hooked them up just like we did the mullet baits. In short order, we had several fish in the boat. The belly of a barracuda is very nice and white, and my father did not wait very long to slice a few strip baits from the fish we had caught.

It turned out to be a good day, even “without bait”. I even went to “Show and tell” at school the next Monday to tell everyone how we had caught fish on a piece of cloth!

Next time you're on the water with no bait, try a little innovation. It just might work!

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Worms as Bait

Worms are a natural bait for both fresh and saltwater fish. Beach worms and Blood worms make ideal baits for saltwater fish while the common garden worms will catch most species of freshwater fish.

Two methods of attaching worms to hooks work best. The first is to simply thread the hook down through the centre of the worm leaving a 1-2 cm tag each end and lifting the upper portion up over the hooks eye and onto the line, using a small half hitch to hold it in place.

The second method is to thread the worm onto the hook leaving loops or folds. Again leave tags of about 1-2cm each end and use a half hitch at the top to hold the worm up in place. Using this method a number of worms can be placed onto the single hook providing a larger mass of bait 
and an excellent bait presentation for larger fish.

Teknik susun umpan

TEKNIK memasang umpan juga penting untuk menarik perhatian ikan. Ini kerana cara menyusun serta meletakkan umpan turut diambil kira supaya mangsa lebih cepat memakan umpan.

Menghimpunkan jumlah umpan yang banyak terutama cacing pada mata kail antara teknik yang boleh digunakan ketika memancing air tawar untuk memikat penghuni sungai ataupun tasik. Cacing adalah antara umpan paling berkesan untuk kebanyakan ikan air tawar. Ia mungkin digunakan seekor atau beberapa ekor sekali gus seperti gambar rajah berikut.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Fishing Games Download

Catch a boatload of fishy fun in this original arcade challenge! Load up the RV and crisscross the country in a series of tournaments that will put your angling prowess to the test. Cast your line in colorful locations like Bullhorn Lake, Golden Corn Lake, Wicked Mansion Lake, and more. Catch fish to earn points and climb to the top of the rankings in the amateur, pro, and elite circuits.

Your fellow fishers are sure to keep you on your toes, but watch out for surprises swimming just below the surface that will slow you down. Featuring innovative gameplay, colorful full-screen graphics, and hours of fun for the whole family, Fishing Craze is no fish-tale ... it's the real thing! Catch it today!

Games Download

Live Prawns

To attach live prawns, carefully pass the hooks point under the first shell section after the tail. Do not attempt to go for more as the prawn will die. Live prawns are gulfed down by all fish and your hook will take.If your fortunate enough to be able to gather live prawns, your fishing experience is sure to be successful.

They make an excellent bait for virtually every estuary species and many ocean going species too.You'll need a good aerator and continual water changes to keep them alive. If they die, freeze them immediately, however, once thawed, they do not re freeze well.Dead prawns are simply attached by threading the hook up through the body from tail to head.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Make Bait Tips For Jigs

Here is how to make bait tips from shrimp to add flavor and odor to your jigs.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 30 minutes

Here's How:

1.You will need an empty plastic quart mayonaise jar, a box of table salt, and two pounds of bait shrimp without the heads.

2.Peel all the shrimp so you are left with meat only.

3.Cut the shrimp into pieces no larger than one half inch around.

4.Pour a layer of salt a half inch thick in the bottom of the jar.

5.Place a single layer of shrimp on the salt, and cover that layer with another layer of salt.

6.Alternate layers of salt and shrimp until the jar is filled, and put the lid on tightly.

7.Allow the jar to sit for as long as possible, even for several weeks.

8.You may now open the jar and remove the shrimp, placing them in plastic baggies for storage and use. Or you may simply use the shrimp directly from the jar, disgarding the excess salt.

9.The shrimp will be toughened enough to stay on a hook, small enough not to interfere with jig action, and smelly enough to do wonders attracting fish!


1.Make sure to remove all of the shell pieces

2.Make sure to cut the shrimp small enough, but not too small.

What You Need:

*2 pounds of fresh shrimp
*one pound of table salt
*1 plastic quart mayo jar

Monday, July 21, 2008

Looking for Fish in the Right Places

Do you fish the same areas over, and over again? Those same flats; that same channel cutting through the grass; the same ledge or wreck; you know all of the places you fish sometimes like the back of your hand.

You got to know those places over time by being familiar with them. So how can you go to a completely new area and have a chance at catching fish the first time out? Try some of these tips to get you started.

1-First of all, buy a good chart of the area. If its an inshore location, you will need it for navigation. If you are going offshore, wreck locations, bottom contours, and GPS numbers are on lots of fishing maps.

2-Stop at a good tackle shop and ask a lot of questions. Don't expect a lot of good answers in the early morning when they are busy. Come a little later in the morning when bait buying the rush has slowed, and simply tell the owner you are new to the area and that you would like his or her help in locating some fish. They will be eager to help you, because if you are successful, it is likely they just found a new customer! They will mark a chart up for you if you buy it from them, and that chart can end up being the best investment you can make.

3-When you get your chart, sit down one evening and study it. Find the cuts and channels. Locate the deeper holes or humps. Find the flats that will empty to a nearby channel at low tide. Chart study of this nature is basically eliminating large expanses of water rather than finding specific holes or places to fish. In any given area, there are literally miles of water that are not worth your while fishing. By simply eliminating that water, you can concentrate on more productive water.

4-Find out what the tides will be on the day you plan to fish. When you talk to the local tackle shop be sure to ask which tides to fish.

If all else fails and you have the funds available, hire a guide. One day of fishing with a guide can teach you the areas to fish, the bait to use, and the tides to fish. Granted, the guide may take you to only one location, but you will at least have that location on which to count. Lots of you guides may get angry at me for suggesting this, but let's face it, it's a paid trip and you'll only be giving up one location, not your entire black book!

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Fishing Phone Games

Infinite Dreams Hooked on Creatures of the Deep v0.74 N-GAGE SymbianOS9.1 Cracked-BiNPDA
Lost sense will bored let ' us play this game,


First Download and Install the N-Gage Application at ngage app
and install at your phone.

After install ngage application then install this games follow the instructions.

Game Download

Games Instruction

Hooked On: Creatures Of The Deep is one of Nokia's flagship first party games, and one of the most eagerly awaited titles of the new N-Gage platform's launch. It's been published by Nokia itself, and the developers are the Polish company Infinite Dreams, who are well-known in the smartphone community for their acclaimed high-quality games such as K-Rally, Sky Force and Super Miners (all of which are available for N-Gage phones, just look for the versions labelled "Symbian S60 3rd Edition").

HO:COTD is a sort of combination of a fishing simulator and a role playing game, with every successful catch earning you experience points (XP) that bring you closer to "levelling up", which unlocks new features, playing areas, items and even mini-games. You can just fish at random if you want, or you can choose to take part in a quest (usually to find a particular object lost underwater, or to catch a certain creature), or you can take part in tournaments which are held several times a day in the game world (they're offline tournaments against computer players, so you don't need an internet connection). All three activities can be done at once, so for example if you get bored of a quest you can go off to join a tournament.

The game takes place in four real-life fishing resorts in Costa Rica, Alaska, Scotland and Thailand. Some of the characters you meet exist in real life, and the resorts themselves are represented by locations in the game based on real maps. You start the game in Costa Rica but as you earn experience you'll unlock the other locations, and you can fly to them from each resort's airport. As you level up, new fishing tackle will be available to you from the resort shop (you don't have to pay for it, just reach the right level of experience and go and collect it).

The controls for the game are very, very simple: you move with the direction pad, and you select things with either the direction pad button or the top gaming button (the A button). You also occasionally have to choose an option with the blue soft keys. The simplicity of the controls means you can play the game just as easily with one hand as two, and the game plays just as well in horizontal/landscape mode as it does in vertical/portrait mode. HO:COTD is suited to practically any phone model with any button layout.

You choose where to fish from a detailed 2D map which you drive your boat around. The map is animated, so for example you can see where other boats are fishing (if there are any), and the depth of the water is visible from the colours of the sea or lake. Once you decide on a place to fish, you just click the button and you're presented with a 3D view of the spot where you can look all round and up and down.

Using a golf style power meter, you press the button to cast your line, and then press it again to choose how far out you want the line to go. If you've managed to obtain a depth meter, you'll see a chart showing how deeply your lure has sunk, which is important as different lures sink at different speeds, and different fish live at different depths. Reeling the lure in keeps it at that depth, though it may drag it away from an interested fish. When a fish does try to take the bait, the game's camera zooms in on the end of your reel, and if the fish is ready to be reeled in a blue icon will appear telling you to press the game button.

This is where the excitement begins: you have to get the fish all the way back to the boat, with that distance represented by a blue bar. At the same time, the fish has to get away from you, so it tries to pull on the line as hard as it can, and the strain on your line is represented by a green and red bar next to the blue bar. If you don't reel the fish in it will get away, but if you do reel the fish in it will cause strain on the line. Your task is to balance the strain with the reeling, and this is where the essence of the game lies, in "playing chicken" with the strain gauge so that it goes as close to breaking point without actually breaking. This is made very difficult by the constant changes in direction of the fish, and you see it spinning you around in the main display, occasionally even jumping out of the water in a rather spectacular manner.
If the above process sounds complicated, it isn't, you get to know the game very quickly and fishing becomes an instinctive process. Catching a fish feels very much like a duel, which is probably as it should be.

If you manage to get a fish reeled all the way in, you receive experience points based on how rare the fish is and how difficult it is to catch. You can then either keep the fish or release it (the game generally rewards you for releasing fish, especially rare species).

Sometimes you'll find a fish is very easy to reel in, and then you'll discover it isn't a fish at all but an object of some kind. It's worth keeping all the man-made objects you find, as you receive bonus experience points for removing rubbish from the water, and the objects may help you solve certain quests. Particularly interesting are the messages in bottles that you catch from time to time, which reveal the back-story to the location you're in at the moment. For example the Costa Rica resort has lots of ancient maps and messages from Christopher Columbus.

You'll also very occasionally catch a creature that isn't a fish, such as a turtle, crocodile or even (if you're lucky) the Loch Ness Monster.

N-Gage Arena

As far as we can tell, the only Arena features on here are online scoreboards, and various in-game actions also earn you N-Gage achievement points for your N-Gage profile.


Hooked On: Creatures Of The Deep is great fun to play once you've worked out where all the options and status screens are, and it gets even better once you've unlocked things like the depth meter, extra tackle, and the other resort locations. People who invest time in this game will be rewarded.

Unfortunately the game's designers haven't made it very easy to do the things above. The "Pause" menu is far more important than its name suggests, and the "Pocket" menu also needs to be much more prominent so people can easily find some extremely vital things like the tackle box. There really ought to be a tutorial at the beginning of the game taking the player through finding all these features, because progress will get very very difficult without them. Infinite Dreams know how to do tutorials, they have an excellent one at the beginning of Games, so it's a shame they didn't make one for this game too.

Another problem is that the amount of experience required to unlock certain parts of the game is far too high. The main reason this reviewer has taken so long to write this review is because it took about two or three days of long playing sessions to unlock the first extra resort. Considering the average phone gamer is only likely to be playing this on their way to and from work, it may take them weeks to unlock even one extra resort, by which time they could well have become bored as progress seems so slow. It also seems odd to lock these resorts at all, as the player starts on level 1 in all of them and progresses in each resort completely separately.

It's also a shame that N-Gage Arena hasn't been used for more than just scoreboards, and some features touted last year (such as putting your own message in a bottle for other Arena members to read) seem to have been dropped.

This is a frustrating situation because all the ingredients are here for one of our ultra-rare "Mega Game" awards, but unfortunately HO:COTD doesn't quite make it.

However, this is still one of the best phone games out there, it has great gameplay which suits long and short playing sessions, it has wonderful graphics, it has depth and longevity, the controls are simple and intuitive, and it brings a new kind of game to phones too. At 10 euros this is really good value for money, there's so much to discover in HO:COTD that it will keep you going for a long, long time.

We feel very happy to give Hooked On: Creatures Of The Deep our first "Recommended" award for a next gen game, and hope that Nokia will get Infinite Dreams to do lots more N-gage games. If they're this good on their first attempt, they definitely deserve a long term contract.

Game Download

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

How To Keep Your Gear in Working Order

Tackle is expensive and in salt water it can really take a beating. Here's some simple steps toward saving that tackle.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 30 minutes

Here's How:

1. When you return from a fishing outing wash your rods and reels immediately.
2. Use soapy water and a soft brush. Water from a hose will not break up dried salt. Soap and a brush is the only way.
3. Use the brush and soapy water on all reels and rods. Make sure to get every eye on all the rods.
4. Take every lure and hook that you used and wash them in the soapy water. This prevents the hooks from rusting.
5. The same goes for any tools. Wash pliers, cutters and knives in the soapy water.
6. Make sure everything has dried before you store your tackle. Turn all rods and reels upside down to allow any standing water to drain.
7. A small rag very lightly coated with a good reel oil should be used to wipe everything down after drying.
8. Follow the manufacturer's instruction on reel lubrication. Remember, if you think you are using too much oil, you very probably are. A little goes a long way.


1. If you use too much oil in a reel, the oil will ooze and seep on the next trip. You will find your hands coated, and fish do not like the scent of oil!
2. Have a place to hang drying rods and reels upside down so the water will drain.
3. Always store rods vertically either hanging or free standing - never leaning.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

The Hook Setting


circle hook


Getting a Good Hook Set is a Key to Catching Fish

With the possible exception of sheepshead, setting the hook on a fish is at once both the easiest and the most misunderstood action that anglers can take. I watch anglers all the time, and I find that different anglers have different techniques even when fishing for the same fish.

Hook Types

If a fish was caught, the hook had to be set; that’s simple enough. But who set the hook? Some anglers are simply lucky enough to catch a fish because the fish itself set the hook running away from the pull of the line. In the case of circle hooks, the fish sets the hook by design. But, on standard hooks, it takes a conscious effort to set the hook on a fish that bites. More important than anything else is probably the condition of your hook. Most anglers fish with the same hook – sometimes on multiple trips. Just how sharp is that hook? It should hang on your fingernail when the point is placed there. Get a good hook sharpener and use it!

Fish Species

All fish differ in at least one aspect. Important to us here is the shape, size and relative strength of their mouths. Seatrout have a very tender mouth, and hooks can easily be pulled if too much pressure is applied. At the other end of the spectrum is the tarpon, whose boney mouth is more often than not unable to be penetrated by a hook. Flounder and fluke present yet another type of hook set. They tend to hold the bait for a short while before getting it all the way into their mouth. Hence, a delayed hook set is necessary. Billfish present an entirely different set of rules because of the way they strike a bait with their bill and then circle around to eat the bait. In between all these we have a whole variety of fish that fall into a general category I call bottom fish.

Bait Types

There is a difference in the way a fish takes, as an example, a cut bait versus a live bait. They can usually inhale a cut bait and the bite that you feel needs a quick hook set. Live bait with a single hook, on the other hand, needs to be eaten; so, the hook set needs to be delayed to enable the fish to get the entire bait into its mouth. Artificial lures need a quick hook set to prevent the fish from spitting the lure when it realizes it has been fooled.

Water Depth, Line Length and Rod Size

Most anglers fish with monofilament line. That line has a stretching quality that can be significant in deep water. If you are fishing relatively deep water (fifty feet or more), you need a longer rod with more backbone. That hook set needs to be hard and long to overcome the stretch in the line, and the longer, beefier rod can help. Braided line can help the stretch problem, but can still be affected by currents that put a bow in the line. Either way, you have to overcome the depth to set that hook.

Basic Rules

So, here are some basics you can follow and questions you can ask yourself to help you set that hook and bring a good fish to the boat or pier.

* Know the fish you are pursuing - does it have a soft mouth or a hard mouth?
* How deep are you fishing?
* What kind of line are you using?
* How about that hook - Circle or standard?
* What kind of bait are you using – can the fish get it all in one bite?

Simple rules make hook setting an easy task. These basics can help if you pay attention and react accordingly. Tight lines!

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Fishing Rod Buying Basics

Fishing Rod Comparison

Many people looking to buy a fishing rod simply show up at the local big box store and pull the first rod that catches their eye off the rack. Others search the Internet for reviews on popular upscale brands. Still others ask a friend, or in my case, write to me asking which rod to buy. Here are some basic rod facts that you need to know before you head out or go online to purchase one.
What Kind of Fishing are you Planning?

* Inshore Fishing

Inshore fishing means relatively shallow water and relatively small fish – under 20 pounds for the most part. So, you need a rod that can handle a good size fish, but not one that weighs so much you can’t even fish with it.

* Casting – Casting rods are used with conventional reels and can be used with lures or bait for light bottom fishing. They also accommodate floats and are good for free-lining live bait.

* Spinning – Spinning rods can usually do the same things that a casting rods does, they simply use a different reel – a spinning reel. Spinning equipment can cast a lighter lure and is not subject to the backlash problems that an inexperienced angler encounters with a casting reel. This is a good choice for a beginning angler.

* Bottom Fishing – Either casting or spinning rods can be used for inshore bottom fishing. The water depth, current, and amount of weight required to get a bait to the bottom helps dictate which size rod to use.

* Fly Fishing – If you are reading this and you are a beginning fisherman, fly fishing may be the last thing on your mind. But, inshore saltwater fly fishing is extremely popular. If you do plan a first time purchase of a saltwater fly outfit, go with a prepackaged complete outfit in a 6 to 8 weight range. This is a good midrange starting point – heavier weights are for larger fish (Tarpon, big stripers, etc.), lighter weights are usually found in freshwater applications.

* Offshore Fishing

* Trolling – The majority of trolling rods are built for conventional reels. While heavy spinning gear is sometimes used trolling for dolphin and king mackerel, conventional tackle is by far the most popular. These rods are usually labeled by line class. The IGFA 30, 50, and 80 class reels match up with the appropriate rod. These rods are usually an investment – they can cost that much. It is not unusual to pay over $1000 for a complete outfit. However, there are some good rods that can be combined with good reels that can come in under $200 for the package.

* Bottom Fishing – These are the “meat” rods that many anglers have used to catch loads of fish. They are heavier and stiffer than a trolling rod, generally longer than a trolling rod, and are able to stand up to the abuses that a big fish can give them.

* Fly Fishing – Fly rods that are used offshore are built for punishment. These are the heavier outfits that have large arbor reels (reels that hold lots of line) and come in weights from 9 to 12. These are very specialized rods for a very specialized type of fishing.

*Surf Fishing

Surf rods are another specialized category. They are made for both spinning and casting reels – the choice is more dependent on angler preference than anything else. These rods are from 9 to 12 or 14 feet in length. They are designed to allow for super long casts that can get a bait out beyond the breakers on the beach. The rod size is also determined by angler preference, and usually means longer, heavier rods when looking for bigger fish.

*Pier Fishing

Almost any inshore rod, including surf rods, can be and are used from piers. Once again, angler preference, casting distance, and fish size will dictate the rod type and size.

Rod Attributes

All rods have a set of attributes that separate them from each other. They may not be limited to this list, but these are the most important ones you need when choosing a rod.

* Length

o- Longer rods usually – not always – mean longer casts.
o- Longer trolling rods will give to a fish when they strike, and are suited for lighter trolling line.
o- Shorter rods generally mean heavier line.
o- Long rods make lure casting easier.
o- Shorter rods are generally better for bottom fishing.

* Guides

o Ceramic guides are more expensive but allow smoother operation, less line fray, and longer casts.
o- Roller guides are used on heavy trolling and bottom fishing rigs.
o- Case hardened stainless steel guides are used for wire line applications.
o- Standard metal guides are least expensive and are suited for most bottom fishing applications.

* Butt Length - The butt of the rod is the part between the reel and the back end of the rod. Casting rods will generally have shorter butts. Spinning rods will have slightly longer butts, and bottom fishing or trolling rods will have much longer butts. The length of the butt on a rod is dependent on how the anger plans to use the rod. Angler preference for comfort and ease of use is also in play here.

* Action (Taper) - Taper is an attribute that most beginning anglers and many experienced anglers overlook. Taper relates to the amount of bend the rod imparts from the tip to the butt. It is measured from slow to extra-fast. In general, the slower the taper, the cheaper the rod blank.

o- Slow - A slow taper means the whole rod, from butt to tip will bend in an arc under pressure – sort of like a big bow. This makes casting a heavy bait difficult and setting a hook even more difficult.

o- Medium - Moving up the scale, a medium taper tends to have the butt section not bend as easily as the top portion of the rod. Most “store bought” rods will be a medium taper. It fits the majority of fishing situations.

o- Fast – A fast taper rod will bend mainly in the upper portion of the rod. It has a lot of strength (backbone) in the lower portion and is more flexible in the upper section of the rod blank.

o- Extra-Fast Taper This taper has the upper 12 to 18 inches of the rod bending with an extremely strong butt section. These rods are generally more expensive, and offer precise casting ability on light artificial lures. They have the flexible rod tip to work a small lure but still have the strength to horse a bigger fish if necessary.

Understanding the terminology and simple attributes of fishing rods can help you make a good choice when looking for a new rod.

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Top 4 Casting Rods

Casting rods are perfect for top water plug action with comparatively heavy line. Their shorter length and heavier backbone allow wrist action to make a plug walk. The better rods will have a fast taper and comfortable hand grip.

1. Shimano Teramar Southeast Casting Rod

This is a highly responsive rod with a TC4 blank that combines a double layer of T Glass with inner and outer spirals of high-modulus graphite, for superior strength without added weight. The action is crisp and dynamic, enhanced with Fuji New Concept Hardloy guides, a Fuji reel seat and Grade A cork handles with hook keeper. It comes with a manufacturer's limited lifetime warranty. Nice rod.

2. Offshore Angler - Inshore Extreme Casting Rod

These rods are custom-built for the inshore angler. Thay are built for the inshore angler pursuing redfish, speckled trout, and snook. The HM-54 graphite blanks are laid up with a new computer-generated design for unsurpassed strength and sensitivity. The actions have been tuned for tossing lightweight lures and popping corks, and a heavy backbone for setting the hook on a speck without ripping his lips off.

3. All Star "Big Boy" Rod

These rods feature the best of everything: premium high modulus IM10X graphite blanks with titanium-coated stainless steel guides, 'Sensa Touch' blank-thru reel seats and premium cork handles. They can move really big fish away from structure and though they appear to be over built and oversized, they're incredibly light and strong.

4. St. Croix Tidemaster Inshore Casting Rods

Made for throwing plugs and bucktails at stripers or blues, ripping tube lures past a voracious barracuda, or subtly dropping a crab on the nose of a permit or bonefish, these rods can do it all. Lightweight. Perfectly balanced. With precise casting accuracy and fish-fighting power. All rods feature premium 1-pc, SCII graphite blanks featuring specialized taper designs to maximize your presentation. Fuji Hardloy guides and Fuji reel seats.

Fishing for Grouper

The Approaches

There are basically three approaches used when fishing for grouper – straight bottom fishing, free lining live bait, and slow trolling.

1. Let’s talk about the bottom fishing method first. A good rod and reel, with fifty pound test monofilament line can handle almost all the grouper you may encounter. Line much larger than that is overkill that is cumbersome, and, some believe, visible to the fish.

* The terminal tackle consists of a sinker, leader, and hook arranged one of two ways. The first way is called a fish finder rig by most anglers. It is tied with a pyramid or bank sinker on the very end of the leader. Up about eighteen inches from the sinker is a loop tied in the leader. The loop is about twelve inches long and it is to this loop that the hook is tied. A variation of this rig has a longer leader with two loops and hooks.

* The fish finder rig is the favorite bottom rig of almost all the bottom fishing charter boats. It is excellent for fishing straight down under the boat. Even when the rig is dropped right into the bottom structure, it seldom hangs up, something charter captains love.

* The normal bait used on a fish finder is cut bait, either squid or small fish, and occasionally a small live bait. This rig will catch a variety of species, including grouper.

2. More serious grouper anglers will opt for the second approach, called a live bait rig. This one had a sliding egg sinker on the line above the leader. The leader is long, sometimes five or six feet long. The hook of choice on this rig is a circle hook, normally about 8/0 or 9/0 in size (an 8/0 circle hook is about the same size as a 5/0 regular hook).

* Both of these bottom rigs use monofilament leaders. The choice of leader material for most anglers is fluorocarbon. Advertised as virtually invisible to fish, it does seem to draw more strikes that regular monofilament.

* The long leader allows a live bait to swim more freely and naturally than a short leader. The sliding egg sinker allows a fish to take the bait and swim off without feeling the weight of the sinker.

* All of the preparation so far is pretty standard fare for almost any bottom fish. The difference in and secret to grouper fishing comes in how you handle the strike.

* Grouper run out, grab a bait, and head back for cover. This habit will cause many lost fish and hung lines. Serious grouper anglers will crank the drag down on their reel as hard as they can, often using a pair of pliers to lock it down. The idea is to stop the grouper from taking line and returning to his structure home.

* When a grouper strikes, anglers will lay their rod on the rail and start winding as hard as they can. The circle hook will handle hooking itself. The battle now is one of brute strength between angler and fish. More often than not the fish wins!

* When a grouper makes it into a rock or reef, many anglers will simply break off the line and try again. The savvy angler will give the fish a loose line for as long as thirty minutes to allow the fish to relax and possibly swim out from under the structure. It has worked for many anglers on more than one occasion.

The third method for grouper fishing involves trolling, and there are two variations of trolling to use. In the Gulf of Mexico grouper anglers use magnum diving plugs that will go as deep as thirty feet or more. Many areas of Gulf bottom are lined with ledges and rock. Artificial reefs can be found on any good chart from as close in as five miles to as far offshore as fifty miles or more. Anglers slow troll these large artificials over and around this structure.

* The second variation is to troll with Monel wire line using a trolling weight and trolling feather. Strip baits are cut and attached to a double hooked trolling feather. A six-foot leader is tied to a one pound trolling weight and that weight is then tied to the wire line.

* Very heavy tackle, including a rod with case hardened roller guides and roller tip is necessary when fishing with wire line. This makes the fishing outfit heavy and cumbersome at best.

* The wire line method is popular in and around south Florida in the winter when big black grouper move into the shallower reefs. Patch reefs rising off the bottom in twenty feet of water will top out about three feet below the surface. Sometimes thirty yards in diameter, they are an ideal habitat for black grouper. Anglers troll around the edges of these reefs waiting for as strike. When one occurs, the boat moves directly away from the reef to drag the fish away from its hole. The first few yards of wire line are often reeled in with the rod still in the rod holder. This is really meat fishing, with little chance for a real fish battle; but, it is different, and it does put fish in the box!

Keep Your Catch Fresh

Fresh fish is the best fish, and keeping it fresh on the water is easy if you follow these steps.

1.Take an ice chest with you large enough to hold at least 50 pounds of ice with half of it's volume remaining.

2.Determine how long you plan to fish. Crushed ice will not last as long as block ice.

3.Use crushed ice if you are fishing a half day or less. Use block ice if you are
fishing more than a half day.

4.With crushed ice, cover the fish with ice in the ice chest as you catch them.

5.With block ice, chip off enough ice with an ice pick to cover the fish as you catch them.

6.With a large thick fish, consider gutting the fish while on the water and getting ice into the stomach cavity. On a hot day, fish will spoil from the backbone out because the cold can't penetrate fast enough.

7.If you have a long boat ride and drive home, consider taking a box of table salt along with you. Pour and mix the salt in the ice chest with the fish and melting ice. It has the same effect as salt in an ice cream churn and will keep the fish colder.

8.If you have a large boat with a built in fish box, consider making a salt brine slush with 100 pounds of crushed ice and table salt. This brine will keep fish all day and will actually be act colder than plain ice.


1. Contrary to popular belief, fresh fish will only stay fresh for 2 days, and then only if they are handled properly. After two days they must be eaten frozen.

2. Strong flavored or oily fish like bluefish or the mackerel family will become even stronger unless they are kept very cold after being caught and eaten before freezing

Friday, June 27, 2008

Fly Fishing-PDF

* Grand Slam Time in Resurgent Xcalak.

* Jersey's offshore Bonanza.

* Monster Drum of the Chesapeake.

* Create the perfect tying room.

* Pioneers: Nelson Bryant.

* Wading strategies that work.

* Plus: Tabory talks bluefish.


Jewels of the Caribbean Sea

Tour the depths of the Caribbean where, in waters famed for hidden treasures, another kind of wealth lies in abundance. From the coral reefs, across the plains, and through the grasses, stunning underwater photography allows you to get close up to creatures rare and fantastic. National Geographic cameras capture a baby sperm whale romping near the surface, a manatee settling down to sleep, and dolphins playing on the sandy plains. Observe predators such as the Caribbean reef shark and the barracuda hunting the weak and unwary. And witness an array of brightly colored, exotic creatures - nature's own living JEWELS OF THE CARIBBEAN SEA.

National Geographic's hour-long Jewels of the Caribbean Sea is actually much more than a showcase of Mother Nature's collection of precious art treasures. It is also a glimpse into the tireless struggle for life that makes the ocean depths shimmer and glitter so spectacularly. As wondrously beautiful as they may be, coral reefs are also living factories, vast and nearly timeless. To pass through an undulating wall of thimble jellies and descend a few hundred feet down these fantastically colored cities of the sea is to descend through history. Here at the bottom, amidst both microscopic bacteria and mammoth manta rays, life is hard won. While vibrantly colored Caribbean reef squid participate in a ritualistic visual combat for mating rights, the battles of others aren't as aesthetically pleasing. Only the most wary survive. This is not to say, of course, that life here is entirely an every-man-(or fish)-for-himself affair. See for yourself the bizarre relationship between the pearl fish and the sea cucumber. Or, for a slightly less unmentionable example, take the Goby and the black grouper. What's a nutritious lunch for the tiny fish proves to also be some pleasant attention to the larger one's hygiene. Ultimately though, as above, so below. The Caribbean may be more exotic in many aspects, but where the beauty ultimately lies is in the will to live.


Thursday, June 19, 2008

Trolling Lures

Megabait Holographic Big Game Hi Speed Offshore Trolling Plug

Great High Speed Trolling Plug for Wahoo, Tuna, Kingfish, Dorado, Marlin, Mahi Mahi, Dolphin Fish and more!

Reinforced for rugged saltwater use with wire through construction, braised solid rings, compact extra heavy duty swivels and two single super sharp Mustad hooks!

Features Megabait's exclusive Prism Holographic Finish. Shines, Shimmers, and flashes in rainbow colors like a real fish!

Large 3D Eyes

Features a tight steady side to side swimming action that allows the holographic finish to flash in the water inticing fish to strike from a distance!

Excellent for fast trolling 6 to 12 knots!

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Measure Saltwater Fish

Most finfish size limit regulations of the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) use either Fork Length or Total Length.

These measurement methods provide a consistent, well defined measurement technique. These methods encourage angler compliance with fishery management regulations.

Total Length Measurement

Total Length is now measured from the most forward point of the head, with the mouth closed, to the farthest tip of the tail with the tail compressed or squeezed, while the fish is lying on its side.

Total Length Species Include:

Snapper Family

Grouper Family

Red Drum

Black Drum

Several ornamentals

Spotted Seatrout
(Angelfish, etc.)


Fork Length Measurement

Fork Length Species Include:


King Mackerel

Spanish Mackerel



Mullet African Pompano
Gray Triggerfish

Lower Jaw Fork Length Measurement (Billfishes)

Lower Jaw Fork Length Species Include:

· Sailfish

· Blue Marlin

· White Marlin

How to Measure Crab and Spiny Lobster

Crab Measurement

Stone Crab claws must measure at least 2 3/4-inches in length measured by a straight line from the elbow to the tip of the lower immovable finger. The forearm (propodus) shall be deemed to be the largest section of the claw assembly that has both a moveable and immovable finger and is located farthest from the body of the crab.

Spiny Lobster Measurement

Spiny Lobster must have a minimum carapace length of greater than 3-inches and the measurement must take place in the water. The carapace is measured beginning at the forward edge between the rostral horns, excluding and soft tissue, and proceeding along the middle to the rear edge of the carapace.

Fishing Information,fishing tips,fishing tools ,destination fishing vacation,seafood and altogether about fish.Maklumat Memancing,Tip-tip Memancing ,Alat-alat Memancing ,Destinasi Percutian Memancing ,Makanan Laut dan Keseluruhannya Tentang Pancing dan Ikan.

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